What The Flux

Where we live in the States—Truth or Consequences, New Mexico—we’re hardly representative of mainstream American culture in that there seems to be a general disinterest in preserving the past through architecture. Often a structure becomes idle, and is deemed condemned, and the local gravel company, Bar Two, is called in to demolish it and haul it away. In my time I’ve seen a drive through liquor store/bar (with stylish 20’ high metal arches from the 1950s), an old firehouse, an antique tavern that dated back to the 40s, and multiple administrative buildings reduced to rubble and hauled away and replaced by nothing.  In the 19 years I’ve lived there, I’ve seen stunning architectural gems destroyed and dragged out of town—probably melted down for scrap or lost to some unknown fate. I doubt it’s about a lack of appreciation for history; more likely, it’s about keeping money circulating through familiar channels. Bar Two is as rooted in local nepotism as any long-established business...

What’s sinking in deeply is how traditional Greek culture remains. The focus is clearly on family—you constantly see three generations traveling together. Kids roam in loose little gangs, kicking soccer balls across town squares, which are lively hubs for social gathering. Parents don’t hover; the community itself is the container of safety. Everyone looks out for each other. Teenagers cluster just outside cafés, where adults in the family linger for hours, sipping coffee or drinking local wine—often just $4 a bottle, and with no added sulfites.

We spent the last three days exploring Nafplio and its surrounding beach towns. Nafplio is vibrant with life, partly because summer is beginning and travel to the coast is picking up. The town has a significant year-round population of about 36,000. Meals are simple and close to the source: a whole fish, freshly plucked from the sea in view. Greece doesn’t rely on imported food; it’s a deeply agricultural country, and the ingredients speak for themselves. A zucchini tastes like zucchini. All it needs is a drizzle of locally grown and pressed olive oil and a sprinkle of oregano. The cheese—made nearby—is incredibly fresh, likely just days old. We wandered through a farmers market with tomatoes redder than fire engines, practically bursting with juice. We picked up unbelievably delicious oranges from a roadside farm stand. Photo: Cats are everywhere—calm, scruffy, and ever-present. They wait patiently at tables for scraps. Rob is about to reward this little guy with the skin from his sea...