What The Flux

After our unusual experience in Preveza—where our Airbnb was overwhelmed by the smell of fuel—and having now visited several cities and towns, we’ve become more attuned to the differences between American and Greek amenities. Acknowledging that we are Americans and used to a certain level of comfort, we decided to cancel our remaining Airbnbs and embrace a slower, more spontaneous pace. We’ve turned our focus inland, exploring the Epirus region on our way to our next major destination, Volos. Along the way, we’re stopping in Ioannina and Meteora—crossing through the dramatic mountain ranges that divide this country so distinctly. We’re currently in Ioannina, a lakeside city that offered a softer landing for our American sensibilities through a thoughtfully designed Byzantine-style hotel. The change in geography—from sea level to 5,500 feet—came with a shift in climate and vegetation. The city’s architecture reflects its layered history, with strong Byzantine and Ottoman influences stil...

At this point in our 23-day trip to Greece, I had booked our first “in-town” stay—an apartment just outside the center of activity, about a 10-minute walk from the heart of town. I figured we’d be acclimated enough to step away from the comforts typically tailored for tourists (Greek or otherwise). A note: our trip intentionally excludes the islands and places frequented by non-Greek tourists. Since we’re scouting for a potential home, we felt drawn to everyday Greek life. Even when we chose towns with some tourism, they catered primarily to Greek visitors. Nafplio, Kalamata, and Preveza all fit that bill. Upon arriving in Preveza after a beautiful four-hour drive from Kalamata, we found our backstreet apartment and checked in. By now, we’d grown accustomed to Greece’s version of “crunk”—tiered apartment buildings, narrow roads, and laundry fluttering from balconies. It’s a style consistent across cities, and we’ve come to recognize it as a hallmark of local life. We checked into a gro...

We arrived in Preveza May 31. Preveza is both a city and a region—we had previously been exploring the Peloponnese region—so it marks a shift in geography and atmosphere. The city is a hub for yacht owners, who gather here en masse, giving it a distinctive nautical buzz. It’s a summer spot, nearby hamlets feature quiet summer homes. We had coffee with a Greek couple who live in Preveza year round and described it as shut up, vacant, moist and rainy. But this time of year it features lively play, yachts, and we were fortunate enough to land on a jazz festival.  By happy accident, we stumbled upon Preveza’s annual jazz festival—a wonderful surprise, especially since Rob and I had been feeling musically starved. In fact, we’ve been scratching our heads wondering why live music feels so scarce and different here. Despite searching for live music venues, we’ve found surprisingly few. More often, performers appear in tourist-heavy squares and promenades, seemingly there more for ambience...