Chorefto, in the Pelion Peninsula

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From Volos in Thessaly, we continued northeast toward the Thessaloniki region, skirting closer to Turkey. En route, we explored the stunning Pelion Peninsula—a mountainous finger of land nestled between the Pagasetic Gulf and the Aegean Sea. Its highest peak, Pourianos Stavros, rises to 1,624 meters (5,328 feet), crowned with a small ski lodge and surrounded by villages that seem to cling to the cliffs above the sea.

We spent two nights in the coastal village of Chorefto, often referred to as the spot where the woods meet the sea, arriving unknowingly on the final day of a Greek bank holiday. What had been described as a sleepy seaside retreat with a lone taverna felt more like spring break: the beach teeming with groups of young Greeks enjoying the last hurrah of their long weekend. “Hmm… this doesn’t exactly match the description.” Our host smiled knowingly and reassured us, “They’re leaving tomorrow.”

 

Sure enough, by morning, the crowds vanished—replaced by an endless stretch of empty beach. The tavernas returned to their natural rhythm: unhurried spaces meant for long, languid afternoons sipping espresso and ouzo, the dry anise-flavored aperitif beloved across Greece and Cyprus.

On foot, we ventured along the coastline, discovering a secluded cove filled with turquoise water and waves crashing dramatically against volcanic rocks. 


After a swim and some sun, we wandered to a nearby taverna for dinner. A hand-painted sign read: “Fish from our boat.” A teenager greeted us and asked, “Would you like to see the fish?” Of course, we said yes. She led us to the kitchen, where her mother—aproned and smiling—pulled out a tray of whole fish, freshly caught that day. We chose the scorpion fish. Moments later, it arrived at our table—grilled whole, head-on, as is customary—alongside moussaka, a comforting, layered dish of potato and spiced ground meat, traditional to the Balkans, the Middle East, and of course, this region of Greece. All of it was lovingly made by the same mother who had proudly presented the fish. Paired with a 500ml carafe of local wine, our unforgettable meal cost just under 40 euros.


(Photo: an abandoned home overlooking the rocky cliff of a turquoise water cove)

Tomorrow we head to Athens, giving ourselves a day to immerse in the city before catching a long flight back to the U.S. a da return to the familiar, after this reverie by the sea.

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